In one of the most known fashion Maison of 1950’s London, Reynolds Woodcock runs his business and life the same way, his way. His habits, demands, and eccentricities are to be followed by all or risk dismissal. After meeting the young Alma, he refuses to let things change, until she takes things in her own hands and finds her own way to make him happy.
Written and directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, Phantom Thread is a character study that does as most of his movies do and digs into the flawed persons that are the leads in the film. The characters’ flaws are what make them human and give them a way to connect with the viewer, may it be positively or negatively. The characters here are not particularly likable but that is how it is meant to be. Also a big part of the film are the inner workings of a fashion designer’s Maison or Atelier. Here the multitude of women working for Woodcock are what one comes to expect from such places and from seeing multiple documentaries taking place in the fashion industry. This environment, just like the characters, is carefully crafted to create a very immersive world that in turn creates a place for the film’s story to exist that is just perfect for it, like Woodcock’s dresses are perfect for his clientele.
Playing the part of Reynolds Woodcock is Daniel Day-Lewis turning in a performance as has been expected of him. It’s nuanced and a bit more him than the character it seems as has been the case of late. The real show stopping performance here is Vicky Krieps as Alma. She plays her part with aplomb and talent, giving her character layers of mystery while also seeming open. She plays against Day-Lewis magnificently well. She makes the most of every scene she has, using small touches like a blush of the cheek paired with a glance to make the audience, and Woodcock, fall in love with her as the film advances. Also giving a fantastic performance is Lesley Manville as Woodcock’s long suffering sister, Cyril. Her acting her is on par with the best and she holds her own in any scene she’s in.
Phantom Thread is a carefully crafted film which means everything about it deliberate and minutely calculated. The cinematography Paul Thomas Anderson shows this in how it frames each scene and allows the visuals to speak for themselves when the characters are not talking. The way he frames his characters and gets the house and every environment just rights shows a knowledge of the power of images that is profound. Oftentimes, the images are worth more than a thousand words here.
As fashion takes such a big place in the film, the costumes are prominent and important. The work by costume designer Mark Bridges and his assistant costume designers Sophie Bugeaud and Johanna Garrad, as well as the large crew that cut, sewed, and made all these costume, is staggering and stunning. Each of the dresses made my Woodcock and his staff in the film is carefully done with a high attention for detail. The film’s central fashion is made by talented people and is made to look like it cost a fortune and most likely does. The clothes in Phantom Thread are central to the film and become a character of its own.
Phantom Thread is a film that is carefully planned, crafted, and executed. It’s a film that some will find overly long at 130 minutes, but it’s also a film that when properly enthused, the viewer should find goes by quickly and gives sumptuous images for the eyes to feast on while the mind studies the flawed characters offered by the script and brought to life by a highly talented cast.